Sunday, November 6, 2011

Carriages - The 17th century

These are just a few facts I learned about carriages in the 17th century. I hope to give some more information soon.

16th century, English carriage  © RIA Novosti


From 1610 onwards paned carriages slowly started to displace the ones with leather or textile window coverings. From this time on functionality in design became overshadowed by pomp and luxury. Whereas it was rather odd to own a carriage in the 16th century, the number of carriages in Paris in 1610 amounted to 325. 
During the first half of the 17th century the number of carriages in France increased erraticly and already in 1616 carriages were common to the english aristocracy. In 1610 George Villiers, the Duke of Buckingham was actually the first to yoke six horses to his carriage.

17th century design by Philippo Passarini
17th century coach, french origin © National Coach Museum Portugal

The most carriages in number and also the most luxurios were used on german territory.  In 1611 Kardinal Dietrichstein visited Vienna with an entourage of already 40 carriages. By the end of the century the Duke Ernst August of Hannover is reported as owner of 50 gilded carriages, with each having a team of six horses.
The Spanish were introduced to the carriage in 1546. Altough common by the end of the 16th century the look of the vehicles remained rather simple here. In 1631 the infanta Maria Anna of Spain travelled to Carinthia in a small coach that fitted only two people. Her husband's (Emperor Ferdinand III.) carriages were not very pompous either, being decorated mainly with leather and black bullen nails, lacking any gilded ornament, the only luxury beeing the paned windows.

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Finally with the new dress form...

... everything is coming together. I'm still far from being finished, but today I received my new dress form and also the silk trim, which is lovely. I don't really know where to put it, what you can see in the picture is just a quick shot, pinned to the dress. But it's finally starting to look like a complete version of a robe à la francaise. Yippie!


Heute kam sowohl meine neue Schneiderpuppe als auch meine Seidenborte an, und so langsam kommt Schwung in die Sache. Die Borte ist erstmal nur auf das Kleid drapiert, ich muss noch überlegen, wo und wie ich sie anbringe, da ich natürlich etwas haushalten muss damit. Aber immerhin, es geht voran und ein Ende ist in Sicht. Und endlich sieht es schon wie eine richtige Robe aus! :D 



Friday, November 4, 2011

What's next?

While waiting for my buds'n'bows trim and the new dress form I ordered, I'm thinking about what to do next. Having a new project - or object of desire - in mind before finishing the current one is quite common, I think. Also common, I suppose, is to do an Anglaise right after a Francaise, which is exactly what I will do, too. I'm hopeful to master the more taylored gown, 'though I still feel like an absolute beginner when it comes to constructing a dress, that's why the new dress form was inevitable.

This well known gown from the Kyoto Costume Institute is what I have in mind. It shall be blue, like the original, but a little simpler in decoration.

© The Kyoto Costume Institute

Es ist eine leidige Angewohnheit, bereits an das nächste Projekt zu denken, bevor das aktuelle abgeschlossen ist. Aber während ich noch auf meine Borte und eine neue Schneiderpuppe warte, plane ich schon eine Robe à l'anglaise, was mir als nächster Schritt nach der Francaise nur natürlich erscheint. Als Vorbild soll oben stehendes Ausstellungstück des Kyoto Costume Institute dienen, das die meisten Costumers sicherlich kennen. 
Ich werde die Farbe beibehalten, aber letztlich orientiere ich mich einzig an dem Schnittmuster von J.P. Ryan. Das Bild oben ist nur Inspiration und so feinen gestreiften Seidentaft gibt es ja leider nicht in meiner Reichweite...

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

1780s wedding dress

I saved these pictures about a year ago, but I do not really remember where they were taken from. They show a 1780s wedding dress, that looks really lovely - especially with the little triangular applications - and I wonder if anyone knows where that dress is being displayed or in which collection it can be found.
Also, does anyone know if the lacing in front is functional or purely for decoration?

Ich weiß leider nicht mehr, woher ich diese Bilder einer 1780er Hochzeitsrobe habe. Falls jemand weiß, wo dieses Kleid ausgestellt wird oder zu welcher Kollektion es gehört, dann immer her mit den Infos ;)  Außerdem frage ich mich, ob die Schnürung vorn nur Zierde ist oder tatsächlich eine Schließfunktion hat.



Monday, October 31, 2011

Haben will...

Kann man so etwas nicht irgendwie selber machen?
Any DIY ideas?

© Sexy Sweaters
 

Saturday, October 29, 2011

Buds 'n' bows

I just bought 6 yards of this silk buds 'n' bows trim for my robe. Unfortunately it's not enough for my original decoration design, but that would have been too expensive. Im a little nervous about the colors, I hope it doesn't look to much tone in tone in the end.

Ich habe gerade 6 yards von dieser Seidenborte - genannt Buds 'n' bows - gekauft. Leider reicht es nicht, um alle Verzierungen einzufassen, wie ursprünglich geplant. Jetzt muss ich mir was anderes überlegen. Und ich hoffe, es wird nicht zu sehr Ton in Ton. 

© Ebay seller Janai

Thursday, October 27, 2011

And now with flounces...

... but I'm not so happy with them. Don't they somehow spoil the look? I don't like the big multi-layered flounces of the mid century anyway, but I decided that I should have some for a 60s dress. Maybe they are just too big...
Also the dress looks a bit messed up because my dress form is too big. It's ok for contemporary clothes, but does not match my measurements in a corset.  I need to get an adjustable one. And then I need shoes, and a hat and so much more...

An meiner Schneiderpuppe sieht die Francaise leider etwas lumpig aus, einfach weil sie nicht meinem Brustumfang im Korsett entspricht. Ich brauche also eine verstellbare. Und die Volants gefallen mir irgendwie auch nicht. Ich mag die generell nicht, aber dachte, dass sie doch irgendwie zum Kleid dazugehören. Irgendwie ist der Look jetzt so rüschig-plüschig, da wollte ich eigentlich gar nicht hin. (?)