Thanks to Cécile from Mme. du Jards Atelier I got to know a little more about the recently posted 1780s wedding dress. It appears to be a rare example of an 1780s fad: the outer corselet. I looked through the 80s issues of the Journal des Luxus und der Moden, where I found a few exemplars with some more information.
|About corselets - Journal des Luxus und der Moden, September 1786|
Of french origin, the corselets are described here as the newest trend in fashion, that appeared not without a practical background. In the Journal des Luxus und der Moden it is depicted as a kind of protection for the back of the dress, which otherwise got soiled by hair powder and pomade of the long Chignons or Catogans. There are full and semi corselets or, more simply, large belts. As it says in the journal the corselets are always of a dark coloured fabric and worn to the best effect over white muslin, gauze or silk.
|Fashion plate September 1786|
|Closeup of the corselet|
This is the description to the fashion plate above. This full corselet is of black taffeta, lined with white (not mentioned) fabric. The back and the front of the corselet and it's construction follow the english fashion. It is slightly boned, using only very thin boning in a 3 inches spacing, stiched with white silk. A 4 fingers spacing is left open in the front to be decorated and closed with 5 buckles. The buckles and ribbons alternate in direction.
Hier in weiteres Beispiel aus dem Dezember des selben Jahres:
Another example, Dezember 1786:
|Fashion plate Dezember 1786|
|A closeup of the corselet|
|Description - Journal des Luxus und der Moden|
The description (roughly) says: Over the corset a corselet is worn. The cut is following the form of the chest, pointing up in the front and the back. It is laced at the back. It is made of brown atlas, same as the outer sleeves.
|Description of the semi corselet|
The semi corselets are not boned, are only half the size of a full corselet and only covering half of the bodice. On their down side they follow the waistline and are usually closed with three buckles.
The wide belt, covering the waistline, is either closed with a buckle (about 3 inches in hight) - The author here compares this buckle to the one that's attached to the bandoleers of the french Swiss Guards and thinks it is not good looking - The belts can also be closed in the back with coloured ribbons.
Here is a picture of the original wedding dress. Clearly, there haven't been only dark coloured corselets. And this one is obviously not closed with buckles but laced. Since all the descriptions above are from 1786 and depict the corselet as a new fashion trend, it is possible that this particular dress is a little younger and shows the ongoing changes of that fashion trend. It seems to be what was characterized as semi corselet. No boning and only covering half of the bodice. Beyond the 1780s, I found no further examples of corselets in the Journal des Luxus und der Moden. Of course this doesn't mean, they couldn't have been used in the 90s as well.